(Italiano) Spoleto e il suo territorio
Spoleto’s stunning beauty and her evident history of wars and peaceful periods seduces and fascinates all who go there. The greatest artefacts of her rich and glorious past are conserved within her numerous museums and the itinerary which leads the visitor to her extraordinary sites.
Today, the city that was adored by Saint Francis of Assisi, written about by everyone from Goethe to Michelangelo, exalted by the prestige of its cultural institutions and international fame, divides her essence between the past and the present, but with always a keen eye to the future.
As you approach Spoleto by car, coming from the south, she welcomes her visitors with the majestic vision of the Ponte delle Torri and the evocative domination of the Rocca, or Fortress, surrounded by the many homes that dot the hill. To the right, nestled in the thick woods of Mount Monteluco, the church of San Pietro (St. Peter) rises.
Spoleto’s modern face can be found at the main train station, where Alexander Calder’s Teodelapio stands. The artist donated this, his first large scale statue and the prototype of others which are now spread among the cities of the world, to the city in 1962. At the end of the same street stands Arnaldo Pomodoro’s Colonna del Viaggiatore (the Traveller’s Column), which acts as a sort of counterbalance.
We propose four itineraries for a visitor to follow when visiting Spoleto, depending on how much time and the specific interests he or she has.
Time permitting, just outside of Spoleto there is a myriad of other wonderful sites from Roman days onwards to visit.
The Duomo
The majestic Romanesque Duomo of Spoleto, dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, was built in the late 12th century when the original one there was destroyed by Barbarossa in 1155. It was consecrated in 1198 by Pope Innocence III.
The lower half of the façade, which is divided into three horizontal sections, has a magnificent Romanesque portal and a Renaissance portico. On the middle section there is a blind gallery with a splendid rosette and four smaller rosettes, and the triangular top section has three rosettes and three silhouetted ogival arches, the middle of which contains a byzantine-like mosaic.
The great 12th century bell tower was constructed out of old Roman era and mediaeval ruins.
The Latin cross floor plan interior, reconstructed in the 1600s and renovated in the 1700s, has three naves and a great apse, and contains many important works of art. There is a bronze bust of Pope Urban VIII sculpted by Bernini, frescoes painted by Pinturicchio in the Sacred Heart Chapel and by Filippo Lippi in the apse, other frescoes, sculptures, a Carracci and the tomb of Lippi himself, paid for and placed there at the behest of Lorenzo il Magnifico with an inscription by Poliziano.
From the Presbytery, in which a signature of Saint Francis of Assisi is carefully preserved, one can descent into the crypt of the martyr Saint Primanio. It dates to the 9th century and has a barrel vault ceiling with frescoes dating to the same period, a truly rare example of a high mediaeval monument.
Spoleto – Itinerary 1
Liberty Square, the Roman Theatre, the Arch of Drusus, Market Square, the Duomo, the Albornoz Fortress and the Bridge of Towers
Many monuments embellish the historical centre of Spoleto: the 17th century Palazzo Ancaini stands proudly on Piazza della Libertà, and to the right of it is a fascinating view of the Teatro Romano (the Roman Theatre) which dates back to the 1sy century AD. The theatre was discovered in the late 1800s and is now part of the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (the National Archaeology Museum) and a truly evocative venue for modern dance and ballet performances during the yearly Two Worlds Festival. Not far from the square is the Arco di Druso, the Arch of Drusus. This was the triumphal entrance gate to the Roman Forum, now occupied by the Piazza del Mercato (Market Square). The Arch was built in the 1st century AD to honour Drusus and Germanous, sons of Emperor Tiberius. It is now partially hidden by later constructions and its base sits below the current higher level of the pavement.
The stratification, and age, of the city is clearly evident here. The base of the arch actually sits on what was in those days the surface of the Forum, next to the remains of an ancient temple on whose ruins the Church of St Isaac was built, only to be later encompassed into the Church of Saint Asano. The only space that remains of the sacred mediaeval building is the crypt, which was carved there using, in part, the stairs of the older Roman temple (the entrance to the Saint Asano church). Just beyond the arch is the Piazza del Mercato (Market Square). It too dates to Roman times and was always, until a century ago, the liveliest spot in town.
If you go up Via del Municipio you will reach the Casa Romana (Roman House), built on a terrace just above the one of the Forum. Discovered between the end of the 19th century and the first decades of the 20th, it has been identified as the home of Vespasia Polla, the mother of Emperor Vespasian. City Hall rises above it , currently the object of major restoration efforts.
Returning to Piazza del Mercato, turn left at the fountain onto Via del Palazzo dei Duchi, with its characteristic 16th century workshops. The adjacent Via Saffi will lead you to Palazzo Vescovile, or the Bishop’s Palace, and the Church of Saint Eufemia. One of Umbria’s most noted Romanesque buildings, the church is characterised by three inner naves and a rare “women’s gallery” (the entrance to the Diocesan Museum). Just beyond the church, after the majestic City Hall, the street opens up to a splendid view of the Duomo. Built in the late 12th century, it took the place of a primitive Christian temple dedicated to the martyr Primanio. The façade, illuminated by a mosaic created by Solsterno, is preceded by a Renaissance portico which has recently been renovated revealing the soft pink and white of its marble.
The “Giro del Ponte”, or “walk over the bridge”, is a traditional stroll enjoyed by Spoleto natives, and follows the city perimeters, letting strollers catch a glimpse of the magnificent sight of Mount Monteluco and the Ponte delle Torri, built in the late 1300s on the ruins of what might have been a Roman aqueduct which guided water from the mountain to the city. At the other end is the Fortilizio dei Mulini, or the Little Fortress of the Mill, from whence many trails into the mountains begin.
Spoleto – Itinerary 2 – The Museums
The National Archaeology Museum, the City Art Gallery, The City Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, the Casa Romana, the Diocesan Museum and the Albornoz Fortress.
From Piazza della Libertà, take Via Apollinare until you reach the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (National Archaeology Museum). Housed in the Sant’Agata Complex, the museum displays artefacts from archaeological digs both in the city and out, epigraphs and Roman Era statues. The tables on which the ancient Lex Spoletina (or Laws of Spoleto) are carved, ancient laws of daunting severity designed to protect the sacred woods, can be seen here. These laws called for punishment to be meted out to anyone who dared cut, desecrate or remove plants from the woods on days not designated for sacrifices in honour of the divinity of the woods.
Following Corso Mazzini you will reach one of the entrances to the City Art Gallery (the Pinacoteca Comunale), one of Umbria’s richest and most interesting museums. Recently, and temporarily, moved to Palazzo Rosari Spada, an 18th century noble residence, the collection includes a priceless group of 13th – 14th century painted crosses, a specialty for which Spoleto artisans were particularly famous.
You have to go up Via Plinio il Giovane and Via del Mercato to reach Casa Romana. This noble residence, said to be the home of Emperor Vespasian’s mother, dates back to the 1st century AD and has a classical Roman Era floor plan. There is an atrium with basin to collect rainwater, a tablinum, triclinium, peristilium, a cubicula and servants’ quarters. All of the floors have inlaid mosaics, and traces of frescoes are still evident here and there.
Once back on Piazza del Mercato, take Via Palazzo dei Duchi and then Via Aurelio Saffi until you reach the Diocesan Museum, housed in ten rooms of the so-called Cardinal’s Apartments in the Bishop’s Palace. It displays religious art from Spoleto and Umbria dating from the Middle Ages to the Baroque period, including a bronze bust by Bernini and several notable Madonnas.
Continuing along Via Aurelio Saffi you will reach the Rocca Albornoziana (Albornoz Fortress). Designed by Matteo Gattaponi, the building has two courtyards and a complex system of angular towers linked by high defensive walls. Recent restoration activity has brought to light many decorations, among which the “Camera Pinta”, or “Painted Room”, stands out for its charming pictorial cycle depicting chivalrous and courteous behaviour among Central Italy’s nobility.
Spoleto – Itinerary 3
Along the world famous Flaminia road, built in the days of the Roman Empire, going in the direction of Mount Monteluco, you will find the Chiesa di San Pietro (the Church of Saint Peter), one of the most important churches in Umbria. Its actual form dates to the late 12th, early 13th century, the most glorious period of Spoleto’s Romanesque architecture. Its façade bears witness to this, with bas reliefs illustrating scenes from the life of the Apostle Peter and moralistic teachings popular in the Middle Ages.
Back on the Flaminia you will soon reach the Fortilizio dei Mulini (Little Fortress of the Mill) from where a lovely walk begins leading you to one of the most beautiful panoramas over the city. The walk ends in the Ponzianino district from where it is easy to reach the Monastery and Church of Saint Ponziano. According to tradition, this is where the young Spoletan martyr, Ponziano (who later became the city’s Patron Saint), was buried in 175 AD.
The Basilica of San Salvatore is not far and worth a visit for its exceptional artistic and historical value. Originally dedicated to the martyrs Concordio and Senzia, it seems to have been built between the 4th and 5th centuries.
At this point in our journey we turn back towards the lower reaches of the city until we reach Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the 1st century BC Ponte Sanguinario (or Bloody Bridge) is located. The name is traditionally attributed to the persecutions of Christians in the nearby amphitheatre.
Now pass through the modern Porta San Gregorio to reach the lively Piazza Garibaldi, closed-in on one side by the Chiesa di San Gregorio Maggiore. This building dates mostly to the 12th century, but its origins are much older. Frequently restructured between the 16th and 18th centuries, its nonetheless has an aspect similar to that of other city churches and bears witness to the influence Lombardian Romanesque architecture wielded.
By following Via dell’Anfiteatro you will reach the perimeter of the former Stella Monastery, where the 18th century Church of Saints Stephen and Thomas, the monastery building and the 2nd century AD amphitheatre, now undergoing major restoration, stand.
If you continue along Via dell’Anfiteatro and then Via Cecili, you will get to the stretch of city wall that has been best preserved over the centuries. The wall here was composed of a lower stratum of great polygonal blocks dating to the 6th century BC, and an upper stratum dating to 241 BC, when a Roman settlement rose here.
The 13th century Torre dell’Olio (Oil Tower) was so named for the defensive technique that called for pouring boiling oil down from the tower onto one’s opponents. Just past it is Fuga (Escape) Gate, so called for Hannibal’s unsuccessful attempt to take over on the city in 217 BC. From the Oil Tower Square take Via Gregorio Elladio. You will soon arrive at the former Church and convent of San Nicolò, an ancient Augustinian settlement. Now the property of the City, it is used to host conventions and cultural events.
Spoleto – Itinerary 4
Discover the wonders outside of Spoleto – Campello sul Clitunno, Castel Ritaldi, Giano dell’Umbria
Campello is a village made up of two sections: Campello Alto and Campello Basso. Campello Alto (Upper Campello) is a fortified hamlet built up around a castle in the deep Middle Ages, around the 10th century. Lower Campello is a hamlet built around the 16th century Church of the White Madonna.
Back down on the main road, and once past some ruins you will find the tiny Church of Saint Sebastian. It was built at the behest of the local population – grateful to have escaped the ravages of the plague, which was widespread in Umbria between 1522 and 1528, unharmed.
The nearby Fonti del Clitunno, or the Clitunno Springs, are also very interesting. The spring water here naturally collects in a wide basin forming a small lake (or large pond) that has been frequented since time immemorial. The water was much more abundant in those days and one could travel up-river to consult the Oracle of Clitunno, the river’s god, to whom a small temple was dedicated where rare large, white bulls were sacrificed. The nearby Tempietto, or Little Temple, bear witness to the holiness with which the area was regarded by Umbrians. The little temple is an unusual example of a Christian cult building designed and constructed along the lines of a classical pagan temple.
Castel Ritaldi came about in the 1200s where once a Roman castle stood, and the town still preserves its castle-like circular layout.
Along the road that takes you from Castel Ritaldi towards the Colle del Marchese (the Marchese hills) you will find Pieve, where there is a beautiful Romanesque Church dating to the 1200s. Dedicated to Saint Gregory, it is worth stopping to admire the façade.
Follow the signs towards Marsciano until you reach Giano dell’Umbria.
Dominated by Monte Martano (which reaches 1094m), Giano dell’Umbria sits on the rocky face of the mountain as sort of sentry over the Valley of Umbria below. Descending from the main square, where City Hall, the Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie (14th – 18th century) and the Chiesa di S. Michele Arcangelo (14th century), you can see the stratifications of the town’s mediaeval buildings embraced by two defensive walls. The Church of Saint Francis rises outside these walls, the remains of one of the first Franciscan hermitages in Umbria. Inside you can admire frescoes dating to the 14th century.
The road that leads to the Abbazia di San Felice (the Abbey of Saint Felix) offers stunning views. The abbey itself is a jewel of Benedictine-style Romanesque architecture, one of central Italy’s finest examples. Built with Lombardian influence in the 13th century, it has a beautiful crypt that safeguards the remains of Saint Felix and an Augustinian cloister dating to the 17th century.
The other tiny mediaeval hamlets that dot the area around Giano, like Montecchio, Castagnola and Morcicchia, are also well worth a short visit. Together, these little castle-like towns acted as a line of defence for the Duchy of Spoleto, and still today they preserve the ambience of their distant past
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